When I was a child growing up in the countryside, my friends and I used to blow seeds from dandelion heads. This normal plant brought an exciting game.
Recently, I experienced food poisoning, and a friend recommended dandelion tea. Luckily, I had some growing in my garden.
After two weeks of daily use, my symptoms improved significantly. This experience changed my view of dandelions from mere weeds to valuable health herbs.
Dandelions are not only edible and healthy but also provide nectar for bees, butterflies, and other insects early in the growing season.
About Dandelion
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a versatile and resilient plant. Also known as lion’s tooth, blowball, or cankerwort, it thrives primarily in temperate regions.
Native to Eurasia, it has naturalized across many areas, including North America, and is commonly found in meadows, lawns, gardens, and roadsides.
Its leaves, ranging from 2-10 inches, have toothed edges and a bitter taste. The yellow to orange flower heads, composed of ray florets, bloom vibrantly from spring to autumn.
The hollow stems contain latex and support the flower heads, which eventually develop into pappus and round seed heads, each containing numerous single-seed fruits.
Benefits of Dandelion
Dandelion is highly recommended for tea, salads, sautéing, soups, or juicing, offering an earthy and slightly bitter taste.
Research in 2014 suggests that dandelion greens rank among the most nutrient-rich available, surpassing spinach in dietary fiber, vitamins K, C, A, and E.
According to Jo Robinson in Eating on the Wild Side, dandelion leaves have “eight times more antioxidants, two times more calcium” than spinach.
They possess prebiotic fibers that stimulate beneficial gut bacteria and compounds like chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, and taraxasterol, which combat obesity and high-fat diets.
A study in Oncotarget found that dandelion root extract slowed the spread of colon cancer cells in test tubes, contributing positively to an anti-cancer drug.
Propagation
Option 1: Sow Dandelion Seeds Indoors
Start seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last frost date.
Use deep trays or pots filled with moist potting soil.
Sow seeds 1.5 inches apart and lightly cover with soil.
Place in a warm, sunny location and keep the soil moist.
Germination occurs within 7 to 21 days.
Transplant seedlings outdoors when they reach 3-4 inches tall.
Option 2: Sow Dandelion Seeds Outdoors
Plant seeds after the last hard frost when soil temperatures are at least 50°F.
Space seeds 6 to 12 inches apart or sprinkle on the soil surface and thin later.
For baby greens, sow or thin to 3 inches apart.
Notes: Sow directly from March to September. The ideal soil temperature for germination ranges between 50-75°
How to Grow and Care Dandelion
How to Grow Dandelion
1. Preparation
Choose a spot with loose, well-draining soil and partial to full shade. Opt for high-quality seeds from reputable sources.
2. How to Grow Dandelion
Dandelions are easy to cultivate and thrive with minimal care. Allow them to grow naturally in a sunny or partially shaded spot.
How to Care Dandelion
Dandelions thrive in full sun but produce the best greens in part shade. They prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8 but can tolerate a range from 6.0 to 8.5.
Regular watering improves taste, but avoid mulching, as it prevents sunlight from reaching the seeds.
Dandelions rarely face pest or disease issues, though rabbits enjoy eating the leaves and flowers.
Harvest
Gather baby leaves in spring or pluck leaves and flowers throughout the growing season. Cut leaves near the roots and discard stalks.
Harvest roots from two-year-old plants. To reduce bitterness, grow in partial shade or cover rosettes before harvest. Use flowers for brewing beer or making best wine.
Preservation
Store fresh leaves and flowers in the fridge and consume them within three days.
Dry leaves by bundling and hanging them upside down in a shaded area. Dehydrate flowers at 86-104°F until crispy.
For long-term storage, chop roots into sections, air dry or dehydrate at 95°F until brittle, roast in a 200°F oven for four hours, grind, and use as a perfect coffee substitute.
Growing dandelions at home is an enriching experience. Try planting this superplant with your children this weekend. We’re happy to answer your questions!
Container gardening offers a practical solution for those with limited space, especially in urban settings.
Using containers allows you to control soil quality, moisture levels, and sunlight exposure, optimizing potato cultivation.
This method simplifies pest and disease monitoring, reducing the risk of crop damage. Growing potatoes in containers is accessible for gardeners of all skill levels.
Summary:
Container gardening is ideal for limited spaces, allowing precise control over soil, moisture, and sunlight.
You should use well-draining soil mixed with compost and fertilizer and plant seed potatoes with eyes facing up.
You should provide consistent watering, adequate sunlight, and periodic hilling as well as manage pests and diseases.
Preparation
Seed Potatoes
Here are some varieties of seed potatoes that thrive in container environments:
Yukon Gold: Medium-sized potatoes with a creamy texture and buttery flavor.
Red Pontiac: Red-skinned potatoes boasting smooth white flesh.
Fingerling: Small, finger-shaped potatoes with colorful skins and firm flesh.
Russet: Large, brown-skinned potatoes with starchy white flesh.
Adirondack Blue: Distinctive blue-skinned and blue-fleshed potatoes.
Firstly, you should cut seed potatoes into pieces, making sure each piece has at least two eyes or growth nodes as they are essential for shoot emergence and robust growth after planting.
Also, let the cut pieces air dry for several days to form a protective callus, which helps prevent rot and disease.
Potting Mix
I suggest using high-quality, fast-draining soil.
You should mix commercial potting soil with compost in a 1:1 ratio to provide essential nutrients and avoid using garden soil to prevent contamination from pathogens.
Next, add an organic, slow-release fertilizer with a balanced ratio, like 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 to support healthy growth.
Container
I recommend choosing a container with ample drainage holes, made from food-safe materials. Containers between 2 and 3 feet deep will accommodate the roots adequately.
The size of your container impacts your yield. Small containers (5 gallons) can produce around 15-30 potatoes, while large containers (10+ gallons) can yield 70-100 potatoes.
Fabric potato grow bags are versatile and provide excellent drainage, while plastic buckets and bins work well if they have drainage holes.
I suggest avoiding containers made from materials like old tires due to potential chemical contamination. Instead, try using wooden half-barrels, plastic storage tubs, burlap sacks, or canvas tote bags.
Growing Potatoes In A Container
When growing potatoes in a container, you should fill the container with 4 to 6 inches of potting soil mixed with compost and fertilizer, leaving room at the top for hilling later.
Next, space the potato pieces 10 inches apart with their eyes facing up, then covering them with 3 to 4 inches of potting mix.
Make sure you maintain consistent watering to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season.
Care for Potatoes In A Container
Here are main requirements for taking care of potatoes in a container:
Ensure your container receives at least eight hours of full sun daily.
Use potting soil blended with compost and fertilizer to ensure proper drainage and nutrients.
Space seed potatoes about 10 inches apart and leave 4 inches of space from the sides.
Provide about 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Add soil around them every 2 to 3 weeks to encourage tuber formation and prevent greening.
Light
Potatoes thrive with at least 8 hours of full sun each day. You need this sunlight to promote photosynthesis, prevent leggy growth, and ensure healthy foliage and tuber development.
If you grow potatoes in partial shade, you might notice the plants becoming leggy and producing smaller yields.
Soil
You should use well-draining soil mixed with compost and fertilizer.
Potatoes thrive in slightly acidic conditions, so ensure the soil pH falls between 5.0 and 6.0. This pH level promotes nutrient uptake and supports healthy growth.
Water
Potatoes need around 1 to 2 inches of water each week. I recommend watering them in the morning to keep the soil consistently moist without becoming soggy.
You should check soil moisture by sticking your finger into the soil. If the top 1 to 2 inches feel dry, it’s time to water.
Temperature and Humidity
Container-grown potatoes thrive best in temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C) and are suitable for zones 3-9.
You should aim for moderate humidity levels to keep your plants healthy and avoid extreme humidity, which can lead to fungal diseases and negatively impact plant health.
Hilling
When your potato plants reach about 6 inches tall, you should gently mound soil around the base of the stems.
I recommend covering about one-third of the plant, including the lower leaves, to start the hilling process.
This process should be repeated periodically as the plants grow. You can stop when the soil reaches the top of the container.
Fertilizer
You can incorporate organic, slow-release fertilizer into the potting mix to support healthy growth without the risk of burning the plants.
Additionally, you should use a diluted liquid fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, every couple of weeks as your potatoes mature.
Care for Potatoes In A Container
Pests and Diseases
Container-grown potatoes can face pests like aphids, potato beetles, and slugs, along with diseases such as late blight, which causes black, moldy foliage.
You should check the undersides of leaves for beetle eggs and larvae as infestations can stunt growth and reduce yield.
Also, use organic methods like hand-picking pests and applying neem oil as well as keep good soil drainage to prevent outbreaks and ensure a healthy harvest.
Pests and Diseases
Common Problems
Rot
Overwatering or poor drainage can lead to rot, causing soggy soil and diminished plant health.
You should ensure proper drainage in the container, use a well-draining potting mix and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Wilting and Poor Production
Frequent soil dryness can result in wilting and reduced potato production.
You can monitor soil moisture regularly and water consistently to keep the soil evenly moist and consider adding mulch to help retain moisture.
Tuber Greening
Direct sunlight exposure on potato tubers can cause them to turn green.
As a result, you need to make sure plants receive full sun while shielding tubers from direct sunlight using mulch or hilling up soil around the base of the plants.
Harvest
Wait until the potato plants have flowered and the foliage begins to yellow and die back, typically around 70-90 days after planting, you can harvest your potatoes.
I recommend gathering a garden fork or shovel and a container for collecting them.
Carefully dig around the base of the plants, lift the plants and shake off any excess soil to reveal your fresh potatoes.
Preservation
After harvest, you should allow them to cure in a cool, dark, and ventilated area for 1-2 weeks to toughen their skin.
Next you can store the potatoes in a cool, dark place with good airflow but avoid refrigeration.
I suggest using breathable containers like paper bags or wooden crates and avoiding plastic.
You need to regularly inspect the stored potatoes for spoilage, removing any damaged ones promptly to keep the remaining potatoes fresh for a longer time.
FAQs
How do you increase the yield of a potato in a container?
You need to ensure you use a large enough container with proper drainage and use high-quality potting mix blended with compost.
Is compost or manure better for potatoes?
Both compost and well-rotted manure are beneficial for growing potatoes, but they serve slightly different purposes.
Compost improves soil structure, provides essential nutrients, and helps with moisture retention wheresas well-rotted manure also enriches the soil with nutrients.
Is it okay to eat potatoes that have sprouted?
You can eat potatoes that have sprouted, but you should remove the sprouts before cooking.
Sprouted potatoes may have higher levels of solanine, a naturally occurring toxin that can be harmful if consumed in large quantities.
Artichokes thrive as perennials in warmer climates and can be grown as annuals in cooler regions.
What sets artichokes apart are their edible flower buds, harvested before they blossom into purple thistles.
Besides their culinary appeal, artichokes are rich in fiber, vitamins C and K, folate, and magnesium, offering numerous health benefits.
With their silvery-green leaves and robust stems, these plants add elegance and resilience to any garden.
Summary:
Artichokes thrive in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil. They need regular watering, good air circulation, and protection from strong winds.
You can start seeds indoors eight weeks before the last frost or use cuttings from mature plants.
Harvest when buds are plump and firm. Preserve by freezing, pickling, canning, drying, or marinating.
Propagation From Cuttings
You can propagate artichokes from cuttings in the fall or winter by delicately uncovering the base of a mature artichoke plant to reveal its roots.
Them use a sharp knife, carefully detach offshoots along with their roots and ensure they are at least eight inches long for optimal growth.
Next, you need to plant the offshoots in well-draining soil, positioning them at least six feet apart from the parent plant to allow ample space for development.
Growing Artichoke
Preparation
When selecting artichoke varieties, consider factors such as climate, taste preferences, and growth habits:
‘Green Globe’: Renowned for its large, globe-shaped buds and robust growth, well-suited to various climates.
‘Imperial Star’: Ideal for cooler climates, with early harvests and compact size suitable for smaller gardens.
‘Purple of Romagna’: Boasting striking purple hues and tender, flavorful artichokes, adapted to Mediterranean climates.
‘Violetto di Chioggia’: Another purple variety prized for its delicate flavor and thriving in sunny, well-draining locations.
Growing Artichoke In Containers
Firstly, you should use large, deep pots with an 18 or 20-inch diameter, or a 20-gallon fabric grow bag and ensure the container has proper drainage holes at the bottom.
Next, fill the container it with a combination of high-quality potting mix and compost in a 50:50 ratio to provide the necessary nutrients.
Also, incorporate a slow-release organic vegetable fertilizer into the growing media to ensure a steady supply of nutrients throughout the growing season.
Now, you can plant the artichoke in the center and ensure the crown is level with the soil surface.
Then, you should water the plant regularly and place the container in a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.
Care for Artichoke
Here are main requirements when caring for artichoke plants:
Thrive in full sun, requiring at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily.
Plant artichokes in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil.
Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Space artichoke plants 3-4 feet apart to allow for proper airflow and prevent overcrowding.
In cooler climates, provide protection for overwintering plants by mulching around the base and covering them with frost blankets.
Light
Artichokes flourish in full sun, their growth optimized with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. While they can endure partial shade, it may hinder flower bud development.
Soil
You should opt for loamy soil with excellent drainage to prevent root rot, especially crucial in overwintering areas.
In addition, balance is key; so you should aim for a pH level between 6.5 and 7.5 and amend the soil pre-planting, especially for perennial growth.
Water
Water artichokes consistently, providing 1 to 2 inches per week. You can water in the morning to reduce evaporation and ensure optimal absorption.
You should utilize drip irrigation for efficient watering, and mulch heavily with organic materials to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Temperature and Humidity
Artichokes, typically grown in USDA zones 7-11, flourish in the Mediterranean and California.
As perennials, they thrive in areas with mild winters (50-60°F) and cool, moist summers (70-80°F). Mulching is essential to prevent early flowering caused by overly hot soil.
Pruning
You should remove dead or damaged foliage to promote airflow and prevent disease.
Then, trim back spent flower stalks to redirect energy towards new growth and encourage continued production of tender buds.
Fertilizer
Prioritize nitrogen-rich fertilizer by applying 2 teaspoons of a 21-0-0 formula per plant every 4 weeks, beginning 4 weeks post-transplanting.
You need to apply fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, then place the fertilizer beside each plant and irrigate into the soil to ensure robust growth.
Pests and Diseases
You need to watch out for pests as slugs can be troublesome during damp conditions, particularly for young, tender leaves.
If you notice aphids, you should wash them off before an infestation occurs. Besides, providing ample airflow around the plants helps deter aphids.
In addition, gray mold or Botrytis can affect leaves and flower bracts, especially on damaged foliage. You need to promptly remove affected leaves and use a fungicide like neem.
Also, viruses transmitted by aphids can cause a decline in plant health and yield. Controlling aphids is crucial to prevent virus spread.
Common Problems
Artichoke Curly Dwarf
This viral disease causes stunted growth and distorted, curled leaves, often transmitted by aphids. To manage, you can control aphid populations and promptly remove infected plants.
Bacterial Crown Rot
This soil-borne disease affects the crown and roots, causing wilting and yellowing. Don’t worry because you can improve soil drainage, avoid overwatering, and apply copper-based fungicides.
Yellow Leaves
Yellowing may indicate nutrient deficiencies or overwatering. Adjust fertilization and watering practices accordingly for healthy foliage.
Harvest
Artichoke harvesting typically begins in late July or early August and lasts until frost. Wait until the buds are plump and firm, typically 3-4 inches in diameter, with tightly closed scales.
Next, you use sharp garden shears to cut the stems 1-2 inches below the base of the bud, then continue regular watering and feeding to support plant growth.
Preservation
To keep your artichokes for later, try freezing them after blanching the trimmed hearts and packing them into containers.
Alternatively, you can pickle them by slicing them thinly and placing them in sterilized jars with brine.
If you prefer, can them by packing the trimmed hearts into jars and processing them in a pressure canner.
Another tasty option is to marinate them in a mixture of olive oil, vinegar, herbs, and spices, then store them in sterilized jars in the refrigerator for future enjoyment.
FAQs
How many artichokes do you get from one plant?
You can typically expect to harvest 6 to 10 artichokes from one plant each growing season. However, the exact number can vary depending on growing conditions and care.
How many times can you harvest artichokes?
Artichokes can be harvested multiple times during the growing season.
The primary harvest occurs in late spring or early summer, and a secondary, smaller harvest can happen in the fall if conditions are favorable.
Why are artichokes so expensive?
Because they require specific growing conditions, regular maintenance, and careful handling to ensure high quality.
Additionally, their relatively short harvest window and the need for significant space contribute to higher costs.
Top 8 Amazing Benefits of Purslane You Must Know of Most People Underestimate the Importance of This Plant: Purslane 🌱
Reading Time: 3 mins read
IN THIS ARTICLE:
Purslane, often dismissed as a mere garden weed, is actually a nutritional powerhouse, particularly beneficial for individuals with diabetes and cancer.
It’s time to shift perceptions and recognize the substantial health advantages this plant offers.
#1. Nutritional Content of Purslane
Vitamins
Purslane is a leading source of vitamins A (1320 IU/100g), C (21 mg/100g), and E, which support vision, immune function, and skin health.
It also contains essential B-complex vitamins, crucial for energy metabolism and brain health.
Minerals
This plant tops the chart with minerals like potassium (494 mg/100g), magnesium (68 mg/100g), calcium (65 mg/100g), phosphorus (44 mg/100g), and iron (1.99 mg/100g).
Omega-3 Fatty Acids in Purslane
With 0.9g per 100g, purslane has five times the omega-3 fatty acids of spinach.
This herb includes significant amounts of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which are key for cardiovascular health.
Antioxidants
Purslane’s antioxidants, like glutathione and melatonin, combat oxidative stress and protect against cellular damage.
These compounds support detoxification and maintain overall antioxidant effectiveness.
#2. Bone Benefits of Purslane
Regular consumption of purslane enhances bone and dental health due to its high calcium and magnesium content.
Its omega-3 fatty acids also help reduce inflammation, aiding in bone health.
#3. Purslane’s Ability to Lower the Risk of Cancer
Research highlights purslane’s antioxidant-rich profile, reducing the risk of various cancers by protecting cells from DNA damage.
Its beta-carotene levels are particularly effective against lung and oral cancers.
#4. Diabetes Management of Purslane
A 2023 study identified purslane’s high molecular weight pectin as beneficial in slowing glucose absorption, thus aiding in blood sugar control.
Purslane also enhances insulin sensitivity, thanks to its omega-3 fatty acids.
#5. Purslane’s Management to Ease Stomach Ulcers
Purslane’s mucilaginous content soothes stomach lining irritation. Research indicates its effectiveness against Helicobacter pylori, which is often associated with stomach ulcers.
This bacteria in purslane is screened for its anti-HP activity according to their minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) with 62.5 < MIC ≤ 125. This index shows purslane is an effective remedy for digestive health.
#6. Cardiovascular Health
Purslane’s exceptional omega-3 fatty acid content supports heart health by improving arterial function and reducing the risk of heart disease
#7. Eye Health
With a lutein content of 34 mg/100g, purslane protects against age-related macular degeneration and cataracts, enhancing overall eye health.
#8. Traditional Uses of Purslane
Culinary Uses
Purslane is versatile in the kitchen. It can be used raw in salads, cooked like spinach, or included in soups. Its leaves make a nutritious addition to pesto and can even be pickled.
Medicinal Uses
Historically, purslane has treated conditions like asthma and diabetes, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Precaution: While purslane is generally safe, those with kidney stones or pregnant women should consult with a healthcare provider before consumption.
By adding purslane to your diet, you embrace not only enhanced flavors but also a boost to your health.
Remember, while purslane offers numerous benefits, it is important to consult healthcare professionals before making any significant changes to your diet or health regimen.
Planting Borage: Ultimate Growing Guide For Sublime Starflowers🌱
With its bright blue, bee-friendly flowers, the starflower is a versatile annual herb. Our expert guide to planting borage shows you how to make more of this edible beauty
Planting borage is your ticket to enjoying one of the most underrated and versatile annual herbs in the edible garden. The borage plant (Borago officinalis) is an old-fashioned ornamental herb that produces beautiful flowers beloved by pollinators. Both the foliage and the borage flower are edible. Its brilliant blue, star-shaped blooms lends a fresh cucumber-like flavor to iced teas and other drinks. Meanwhile, its leaves are best eaten when tender or cooked like spinach.
The borage plant is native to Syria and the Eastern Mediterranean, but grows wild in the UK in certain regions. Its scientific name means ‘father of roughness’ – referring to the rough texture of its hairy leaves. It is cultivated primarily as a garden herb in Europe and North America. However, thanks to its pollinator-friendly allure, it is ideal for growing in a butterfly garden and is a lovely way to bring pollinators to your veggies.
Growing Borage from Seed
Start borage seeds in early spring, as soon as your soil is workable and has warmed. Warmer soil will result in earlier germination. Prepare the soil by removing roots, rocks and other impediments to germination. Make sure it is and has a medium pH range.
When growing borage from seed, sow directly into the soil after the last date of frost. Cover seeds with soil that’s twice their thickness, spaced 15in (38cm) apart. Keep the soil lightly moist, and you can expect germination in seven-14 days.
Best Borage Plant Care
The borage plant is an annual that does not stand up well to cold temperatures. Borage plants die back when a killing frost occurs. They are somewhat rangy, with stems and leaves that are covered in bristly hair. However, the following cultivation essentials will ensure that you can make your borage plants last for as long as possible, and as healthy as possible:
Lighting Conditions: Borage grows rapidly from seed sown in spring as soon as soil is workable. It is adaptive to both full and partial sun situations. Full shade areas will reduce the formation of the flowers and cause leggy plants. Borage makes an excellent addition to the herb or wildflower garden, where bees and other pollinators will visit the flowers consistently.
Best Watering: Borage plants do not tolerate drought conditions, especially when young. Established plants can survive brief periods without water, but leaf and flower production can suffer. Consistent moisture gives best growth. As seedlings begin to form, water the young plants every few days. When the plant is mature with a full root system, allow the soil to dry out between waterings, then water deeply.
Soil & Compost: Borage is almost weedlike in its acceptance of any type of soil. Rich, organic soil will provide the quickest, best growth, but borage is tolerant of poor soils, and even heavy clay. Sand and loam are good media. Planting borage in slightly acidic, well-draining, moderately fertile soil will result in quicker, healthier plants. Nutrient-poor soils result in even bluer flowers.
Temperature & Humidity: Borage seeds germinate quickly when sown in soil that is 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.56°C). Once the plant is mature, it can withstand temperatures to 50°F (10°C.) for short periods. It is hardy to USDA zones 3-10. In areas with high humidity, only water when the soil is dry to prevent fungal issues. Otherwise, it is tolerant of arid to humid ambient conditions.
Fertilizing: One cultivation shortcut when learning how to grow borage is that it needs little feeding. The plant will perform perfectly well in poor soil. However, flowers and tender new leaves will be more prolific in soil amended with a bit of compost or other organic matter.
Problems, Pests & Diseases
Borage is unbothered by most insects and has no significant disease threats. The black fly aphid may pose an occasional problem. You can treat this with a horticultural soap. You might also notice powdery mildew if the plant is watered overhead and has no chance to dry before nightfall in warm months. Otherwise, however, this aspect of borage plant care is simple and relatively free from bother.
Pruning Borage Plants
Borage doesn’t need pruning, but can be cut by a third with no ill effects. You can cut off young leaves for use in cooking and flowers when they are new and fresh. For a continuous supply of young leaf matter, you should remember to sow more borage seeds every three weeks during the growing season.
How to Harvest Borage
For good borage plant care, make sure you the right way. Harvest young leaves by cutting the stem away from the plant. Never harvest more than a third of the plant material at one time. For the best flavor, harvest the flowers in the morning when they are still dew covered. If the plant is grown for seed, allow the flowers to mature on the plant before harvesting the blooms.
Borage Propagation
Borage can be perpetuated by allowing the flowers to go to seed and self-sow. It grows quickly as an annual, and won’t take long to colonize a corner of the garden, reappearing year after year.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are Good Companion Plants for Borage?
When planting borage, bear in mind it is a great companion for several key crops. It is especially suited to growing alongside beans, cabbage, cucumbers, peas, peppers, basil, squash, tomatoes and strawberries. However, do not plant borage near black walnut, potatoes or fennel.
What can Borage be Used For?
Borage has a long history of use as a culinary and medicinal herb. It may be made into a tincture, infusion, syrup or tea. In culinary practice, the edible flowers are a beautiful garnish or addition to salads. The flowers can also be candied for use in confections. The young leaves can be boiled, sauteed or cut into salads. Note that ingesting large amounts of the plant can cause liver damage, and the fine hairs may cause skin sensitivity.
Description: Seedlings have reddish-pink stem bases and oval shaped true leaves.
Powell amaranth: Stems are nearly hairless and red tinged. Cotyledons are 0.5 inch long and lanceolate, with red or purple undersides. Young leaves are green with red-purple undersides, slightly notched, not wavy along the edges, with a prominent midvein. Very few hairs are present on stems, stalks and leaves.
Redroot pigweed: Stems are hairy and pale green. Cotyledons are 0.5 inch long, lanceolate (four to five times longer than wide) and with red or purple undersides. Young leaves are green, wavy edged and notched with a prominent central vein. A central vein is prominent on the upper surface near the blade base. Small, tough hairs are present on leaf stalks.
Smooth pigweed: Stems are hairy and reddish-purple. Cotyledons are dull green with red-purple undersides, 0.13–0.5 inch long and less than 0.13 inch wide. Young leaves are dark green, slightly wavy-edged and slightly notched with a prominent midvein. Hair is dense on the stems.
Mature plants have a shallow, sometimes red taproot. Leaves are green and alternately arranged.
Powell amaranth: Stems are nearly hairless and can reach 5 feet tall. Leaves are 0.6–3 inches long by 0.2–1.6 inch wide, diamond shaped, pointy tipped, non-ruffled and shiny green (sometimes red-tinged) with white veins on the blade undersides.
Redroot pigweed: Upper stems are coated with curly hairs and can reach 6 feet tall. Leaves are 1.5–6 inches long by 2.5 inches wide, oval to diamond shaped, wavy-edged, and dull green with white central veins on the blade undersides.
Smooth pigweed: Upper stems are coated with short hairs and can reach 6.5 feet tall. Leaves are up to 6 inches long, oval to egg shaped, wavy-edged, long stalked and dark green with strong veins and light green to magenta-tinged undersides.
Flowers are small, greenish (turning brown upon maturity) and clustered into long groups located at branch ends and in leaf-stem joints. Clusters on branch ends are larger than those in leaf axils. Individual flowers are either male or female.
Powell amaranth: Flowers are clustered into thin, stiffly upright, mostly unbranched spikes. Branch end clusters can reach 10 inches long by 0.4–0.8 inch wide.
Redroot pigweed: Flowers are tightly clustered into stiff, branching panicles. Branch end clusters can reach 2–8 inches long by less than 1 inch wide.
Smooth pigweed: Flowers are clustered into nodding, branching spikes. Branch end clusters can reach 6 inches long; those in axils can reach 0.5–3 inches long. Clusters are softer than those of the other species.
Fruit and seeds: Seeds develop singly in small, bladder-like fruits (utricles). Seeds are glossy and dark brown to black, no larger than 0.05 inch, oval to ellipse shaped, flattened and notched at the narrow end.
Powell amaranth: Utricles do not easily rupture. Instead, both seed and sac often fall off the plant as an intact, light tan, 0.1 inch-long unit.
Redroot pigweed: The utricles rupture around the middle, dispersing seeds.
Smooth pigweed: The utricles rupture around the middle, dispersing seeds.
Similar species: Common lambsquarters (Chenopodium album L.) seedlings have opposite, fuzzy or grainy looking, white to pinkish young leaves. Palmer amaranth (Amaranthus palmeri S. Watson) leaves are hairless with white veined undersides and long stalks. It has a soft, 1–1.5 foot-long inflorescence atop its main stem. Waterhemp [Amaranthus tuberculatus (Moq.) Sauer] has tapering, thumb-shaped leaves, long, coarsely branched inflorescences and stems that can reach 8 feet high. Tumble pigweed (Amaranthus albus L.) stems are pale green to white; spiny amaranth (Amaranthus spinosus L.) stems are grooved, hairless and spiny; and prostrate pigweed (Amaranthus blitoides S. Watson) is distinguished by its red, flexible, ground-hugging stems. Livid amaranth (Amaranthus blitum L.) has a matting habit, green to red stems and deeply notched, 1.5 inch-long leaves.
Management of Pigweeds
Pigweed germination is generally responsive to tillage and cultivation after the soil warms. Thus, a one- to two-week lag between initial and final seedbed preparation in late spring or in summer helps flush out and destroy seedlings. The final seedbed preparation should be to a depth of no more than 1.5 inch to avoid raising seeds to near the surface. Tine weed or rotary hoe when seedlings are first emerging. Once the crop is large enough to tolerate inter-row cultivation, hill up slightly (less than 1 inch is usually sufficient) before true leaves of pigweed seedlings appear. Even crops like cabbage and squash that are not normally hilled will tolerate this amount of soil against the base. When growing a crop that tolerates heavy hilling, like corn or potatoes, pile the soil up as high as possible to kill any remaining seedlings at later cultivations.
For small grain crops, a dense, uniform and vigorous stand is important for maximizing the crop’s competitive advantage. Harrowing spring grains at between the three-leaf stage and stem elongation is often well timed to eliminate many newly emerged and pigweed seedlings at the white thread stage.
Straw mulch and other mulch materials are highly effective for suppressing these species since their small seeds provide minimal resources for pushing the cotyledons up out of the mulch. Because the seed-leaves stay together in a vertical position until they reach the light, however, some seedlings will usually penetrate 3,600 pounds per acre of loose straw, so either use a heavier mulch layer or compact the mulch after application since dense mulches are more difficult for pigweed to penetrate.
Pigweeds are highly responsive to N and P fertility, so avoiding excess fertilization is critical to management. A legume cover crop mulch, particularly if soil coverage is incomplete, also can stimulate pigweed emergence. If possible, apply fertility amendments after the crop is established.
Pigweeds are only moderately persistent in the seed bank so rotating with sod crops and use of bare fallow can decrease pigweed seed density. Also, a few years of good control will dramatically reduce pigweed seed bank density, and incorporation of a legume cover crop can accelerate seed bank decline.
Pigweeds are prolific seed producers, so clean up fields promptly after harvest if these weeds are present. If possible, remove plants that have flowered, as they can continue to form seeds even after mowing or light tillage that leaves fragments of flowering stalks on the soil surface. Hand rogue at least the larger plants out of the crop if this is economically feasible. Many seeds remain on plants until soybean harvest, which provides an opportunity to capture or destroy seeds during combining.
Ecology of Pigweeds
Origin and distribution: Redroot pigweed is native to eastern and central North America and Powell amaranth to the mountains of western North America. Smooth pigweed is native from eastern North America through Mexico to South America. All three species occur throughout most of the United States, though Powell amaranth is absent from inland parts of the Southeast and smooth pigweed from parts of the Rocky Mountain states. All three species have been introduced further northward in Canada, and redroot pigweed occurs in Alaska. Redroot pigweed has been introduced throughout Europe and Asia, to Australia and New Zealand, and most of Africa. Smooth pigweed has been introduced into Africa, south and east Asia, Australia and New Zealand.
Seed weight: Powell amaranth, 0.40–0.54 mg. Mean seed weight for various redroot pigweed populations ranges from 0.25–0.48 mg with cooler and drier locations having larger seeds. Smooth pigweed, 0.33–0.46 mg.
Dormancy and germination: Germination is stimulated by high soil temperatures (86–104°F). Higher temperatures are required to stimulate germination in younger seeds relative to older ones. A period of burial in the soil increases germinability and decreases the minimum temperature for germination to 68°F or lower. Germination increases with exposure to light, and redroot and smooth pigweed are sensitive to the equivalent of 0.01 seconds of sunlight. Nitrate also stimulates germination of these species, possibly by making seeds more sensitive to light. Seeds of redroot pigweed produced under long day length, cool temperatures or nutrient stress are more dormant, as are Powell amaranth seeds produced in competitive environments. Low soil moisture conditions induce secondary dormancy in pigweed seeds. The first seeds produced on a plant are less dormant than seeds produced at the end of the growing season. This allows a second generation to emerge and reproduce within a growing season in moderate to warm climates, but it prevents extensive germination of seeds too late to successfully produce mature plants.
Seed longevity: When buried in containers at the bottom of the plow layer or below it, a few redroot pigweed seeds have survived several decades, and smooth pigweed sustained only 12% annual mortality in one report. More typically, seed survival of redroot pigweed and Powell amaranth is poor near the soil surface, but even deep in undisturbed soil the annual survival rate is substantially lower than that of many other annual broadleaf weeds. A natural population of redroot pigweed seeds in Mississippi disappeared completely in three years, both with and without annual spring tillage, but this is probably an extreme case. In Michigan, the annual mortality of buried redroot pigweed seeds was 41–81%. In another study with annual tillage, a redroot pigweed seed bank declined 36% per year. In New York, the annual mortality rate of Powell amaranth seeds buried 6 inches ranged from 45–88%. In a seven-year experiment with monthly tillage to 10 inches, the number of Powell amaranth emerging declined by 41% per year. In Maryland and Pennsylvania, mortality of buried smooth pigweed seeds was 39% after one year and 71% after two years.
Season of emergence: These species emerge mainly in late spring and early summer but continue to emerge throughout the growing season, particularly after soil disturbance. Redroot pigweed and smooth pigweed are classified as late emerging weeds with a relatively long (approximately two month) emergence duration.
Emergence depth: Optimal depth for emergence is 0.2–0.8 inch. One greenhouse study of redroot pigweed found an optimum emergence depth of 0.2 inch in typical medium textured soils, whereas another found that optimum emergence extended to 0.8 inch. A field study of Powell amaranth found reduced emergence at 1.2 inch relative to 0.2–0.8 inch and no emergence from 2 inches.
Photosynthetic pathway: C4
Sensitivity to frost: These species are killed by frost.
Drought tolerance: These species are moderately drought tolerant. Redroot pigweed produces at least double the root length of other weed and crop species tested during the first month of growth, partially by growing thinner roots. A fast-growing root system would allow this small seeded species to more quickly access soil moisture throughout the soil profile in competition with other species. In addition, the C4 photosynthetic pathway of these species is unusual for broadleaf weeds and allows the amaranths to thrive under greater heat and drought conditions than many other species.
Mycorrhiza: These species are basically non-mycorrhizal, but mycorrhizal associations do occur occasionally.
Response to fertility: Redroot pigweed is highly responsive to N, P and K and will increase in growth with N application rates up to 480 pounds per acre. Not surprisingly, redroot pigweed becomes more competitive against crops as N application rate increases. Redroot pigweed emergence can be reduced by compost or manure applications, but growth of seedlings that did emerge was increased by compost. Powell amaranth had the highest response to varying compost rates of seven crops and weeds tested, and smooth pigweed is probably also highly responsive to compost and other organic fertilizers. Smooth pigweed growth, however, was unresponsive to P over a range that nearly doubled the growth of lettuce, but it interfered with lettuce anyway by concentrating P in its tissues. Redroot pigweed does poorly on soils with pH below 5.2, and Powell amaranth grows more poorly at pH 4.8 compared to 6 or 7.3.
Soil physical requirements: All three species thrive on a wide range of soil textures from sand to clay and muck. A comparison of redroot pigweed growth on different soil types, however, found best growth on sandy loam and poorest growth on silty clay. Most redroot pigweed populations are intolerant of salt, but adapted populations are moderately tolerant.
Response to shade: Growth of these species is substantially reduced by low light. In partial shade, plants are less branched and allocate more energy to stem growth, and this sometimes helps them to grow out from under a competing crop canopy.
Sensitivity to disturbance: Newly emerged seedlings are tiny, fragile and easily broken or buried. Plants resprout if cut above the seed leaf node. Plants of moderate size or larger will reroot readily in moist soil.
Time from emergence to reproduction: All three species flower in response to shortening days. Redroot pigweed emerging in early summer (long day conditions) flowers in about 6.5 weeks, with seeds maturing seven to eight weeks later. Similarly, in Wisconsin, smooth and redroot pigweed emerging in May flowered in seven and eight weeks, respectively. In contrast, plants emerging under shorter days in late summer can flower and produce seeds very rapidly with as few as three to four leaves at the time of flowering. For example, under short day conditions, flowering occurred in three weeks with seeds maturing three weeks later. Although competition can greatly influence the number of leaves at flowering, the number of days to flowering was unaffected under a wide range of competitive environments under field conditions.
Pollination: These species are primarily self pollinated but, since the flowers are either male or female, wind or gravity is needed to move the pollen.
Reproduction: Plants continue to flower and produce mature seeds until frost. To detect mature seeds, rub a portion of the flower cluster between your fingers and look for hard black seeds. Plants grown in favorable conditions typically produce 25,000–120,000 seeds, though plants with over 1 million seeds have been reported for redroot pigweed. Plants emerging in a well-established crop, however, may produce only a few dozen seeds.
Dispersal: Because seeds of these species often reach high densities in soil, they are easily spread from one site to another in soil clinging to boots, tires and tillage machinery. They are also picked up and dispersed by combines. Wind usually only blows the seeds a few feet, but some seeds remain on the inflorescence into the winter and can blow longer distances on crusted snow. A substantial percentage of seeds survives passage through the digestive tracts of ruminants and rabbits and are dispersed with their droppings. Cow manure is commonly contaminated with pigweed seeds, and spreading the manure disperses these seeds.Both seeds and bits of the inflorescence float and disperse in irrigation water.
Common natural enemies: Larvae of the micromoth Coleophora lineapulvella can greatly reduce seed production. Mice, carabid beetles and crickets consume many seeds after dispersal. European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) sometimes causes substantial damage. The tarnished plant bug (Lygus lineolaris) is often seen on pigweed seed heads and can reduce seed production of grain amaranth in the Midwest by 80% or more.
Palatability: The young foliage can be used in salads or as a pot herb. The foliage may contain high levels of nitrate or oxalate, but these can be removed by cooking and draining off the water. The seeds can be cooked as grain or ground into flour. Smooth pigweed and Powell amaranth are believed to be the wild progenitors of the grain amaranths A. cruentus and A. hypochondriacus, respectively. All three of the weedy species discussed here make nutritious and highly digestible forage. Consumption of large quantities of fresh pigweed over several days, however, can cause poisoning of pigs, cattle and sheep.
How to Forage Curly Dock, Edibility & Foraging Curly Dock 🌱
We’ve been covering a lot of weedy plants with my recent articles on and for good reason. They’re widespread, common in most yards and gardens, easy to learn, and great for beginning foragers. This plant is no different! Let’s learn about identifying and foraging curly dock.
A typical springtime curly dock rosette.
Description
Curly dock is a widespread perennial that grows as a rosette from a large, bright yellow, forking taproot. The leaves start off as a tightly rolled tube and unroll from the middle out, like a scroll, as they mature. They can reach lengths up to two feet! The leaves are smooth, slightly succulent, and have wavy or curly edges, from which the name curly dock comes. The leaf bases are wrapped in a papery sheath filled with clear slime.
The flower stalks have some sparse leaves and, eventually, clusters of green flowers and fruits. The flowers are three-sided and encase a small fruit. These eventually transition from green to yellow to reddish and then dry to a rusty brown. The brown stalks can often remain on the plant through winter, which makes them easy to recognize.
Range & Habitats
Curly dock is native to the temperate climates of Europe and Asia but is found across much of the world. It has been documented throughout North America, Europe, and parts of South America, Asia, Africa, and Australia. It is considered an invasive species in some regions because of its tendency to spread and establish quickly. This plant tends to grow most successfully in areas of human disturbance. It can often be seen in large numbers across recent construction sites, abandoned lots, and other urban developments. It’s also a frequent weed in yards and gardens. In my area, I often see it growing in abandoned lots, construction sites, along roads, and other heavily trafficked areas (not a good place to forage them). We have a few plants that I harvest from around our house, but I don’t allow them to go to seed to prevent them from spreading.
Potential Look-alikes
The information in the description above should be enough to identify curly dock properly. However, look-alike information is something that is regularly requested, so here are some possible species that could be confused with curly dock. This list is not comprehensive and may not be relevant to your region. Remember only to eat wild foods once you’re 100% confident in your identification and comfortable with trying something new.
Other Rumex species. Many are edible, though some are not good to eat.
Before flowering, houndstongue, Cynoglossum officinale, can be similar but has fuzzy leaves. It is toxic.
Common burdock, Arctium minus, could be confused with curly dock when very young. The leaves and other parts are edible but must be processed to remove their bitter coating.
Left to right: curly dock (Rumex crispus), houndstongue (Cynoglossum officinale), burdock (Arctium minus)
Edibility & Foraging Curly Dock
The leaves are best when young and tender. As they mature, they can become tough and bitter-tasting. To harvest, look for leaves that are still partially rolled or just unrolled. Look for vertical creases running up the leaves and test them to see if they stretch without tearing (a trick taught to me by Sam Thayer). Those tender leaves can be cut or pinched off at the base. The sheath and slime around the leaves are harmless and easily washed away. Some older dock plants can produce large leaves very quickly. These leaves can also be used if they are still tender and taste good. They are especially useful for stuffing and rolling!
The leaf on the right would be more tender, but the left still has some creases as well!
The young shoots should be harvested well before flowering. They have a tart flavor and a nice crunch, making them a decent substitution for rhubarb. To harvest, simply cut or break the stem away where it’s tender.
Young curly dock flower stalks.
Finally, the seeds and attached flowers can be dried and ground into flour. These should be collected in late summer and fall once they have turned rusty brown and dried on the stalk. The easiest method for harvesting lots of dock seeds is to place the dried flower stalk in a paper or cloth sack and then run your closed hand down it, pulling off all the seeds into the bag as you go. Some people find the seeds and flowers bitter, so give them a taste and try mixing them with standard wheat flour to balance out the flavors.
Dried curly dock seed clusters ready to be stripped from the stalk and ground into flour.
Foraging Calendar
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A well-designed garden offers planting interest from early spring through to late fall. Choose the right perennial plant species and varieties and you will fill your garden with gorgeous blooms for a constant show from early to late in the season.
Perennial plants come back year after year, in most cases multiplying into sizable clumps that you can simply divide in fall. This means you can then spread the plants around your yard to create that fully planted look that’s so desirable.
Fortunately, there are plenty of reliable choices that perform consistently well. The joy of the best perennials is that they are not demanding plus keep on giving and many will tolerate different conditions and US hardiness zones. Here, I reveal what the experts have nominated as their favorite longest-flowering perennials.
Coneflowers are the long-flowering stars of this perennial border
(Image credit: Beekeepx/Getty Images)
7 longest-flowering perennials to plant in your garden
Grow these easy garden plants and they’ll brighten your space for months every year. The good news is they’re all good plants for pollinators too, so you can help increase the biodiversity of your outdoor space.
1. Salvia
Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’
(Image credit: Olga Ionina / Alamy Stock Photo)
Perennial varieties of salvia have long-lasting blooms that flower all summer long in US hardiness zone 4 to 10. The key thing to remember when growing salvias is to give them a position in full sun with well-drained soil and deadhead regularly, then you will be rewarded with many more blooms over a longer period of time.
‘Salvia is a huge genus that contains a plethora of good garden plants,’ says flower expert Jenny Rose Carey. ‘They have upright spikes of tubular flowers in blue, red, purple, and pink. There are many different salvias that bloom from spring to fall.’
What are some of the best cultivars? ‘Classic Salvia × sylvestris ‘May Night’ and Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ are stalwart late-spring perennials in many areas,’ says Jenny Rose. ‘Meanwhile Salvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue’ blooms strongly from early summer through to fall.’
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2. Yarrow
Achillea millefolium (yarrow)
(Image credit: Dole08/Getty Images)
If you’re looking for an easy and reliable plant that flowers from June through to September, likes full sun and heat, and is resilient in tricky locations then yarrow (also known as achillea) is the perfect choice.
Considered one of the best plants for poor soil, these flat-topped flowers will grow almost anywhere and add an interesting dimension to planting design. What’s more, they are pollinator magnets as their flower shape forms the perfect landing pad.
Yarrow is a great choice for repeat planting in flowerbeds and comes in a range of shades including brilliant yellow, soft rose pink and ruby red. This ornamental perennial is native to North America too, and best suited for hardiness zones 3 to 9.
Deadheading spent flowers will lengthen the bloom period, and cutting it back thoroughly in late summer will encourage fresh foliage and blooms to keep the flowering season going.
(Image credit: db_beyer via Getty Images)
Long-lasting coneflowers are synonymous with late summer. As well as being one of the longest-flowering perennials they are also one of the best flowers for pollinators. They have dusky purple flowers (they’re also known as Echinacea purpurea) with a distinctive orange cone at the center. If you grow them in rich, well-drained soil in full sun you will get a colorful and long-lasting display.
Here’s a top growing tip from Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms, expert perennial growers based in Florida and the Carolinas: ‘Early fall is the ideal time to plant most perennials. This allows them to get well rooted before winter so they have a much stronger start in spring. Planting perennial varieties like coneflower in fall will result in more blooms next year than if you wait to plant them in spring.’
Justin Hancock
Justin Hancock is a Costa Farms horticulturist with more than 25 years in the industry. A plant enthusiast and educator, he has a degree in horticultural science and has worked in garden centers and botanical gardens, and as a garden designer. He has experienced gardening across the country, from Minnesota to Miami to Oregon. Hancock is also co-host of the Costa Farms podcast Plant Rx.
4. Black-eyed Susan
(Image credit: Annie Otzen/Getty Images)
This is another one of the longest-flowering perennials that bloom all summer and require very little care. Deadheading will prompt frequent reblooming and prevent the plants from spreading too prolifically through self-seeding.
‘This native flower is durable, heat tolerant, and flowers all summer long,’ says horticulturalist Gail Pabst of the National Garden Bureau. ‘It’s one of the most popular perennials in North America. Plus, they’re one of the best flowers for bees, butterflies, and other beneficial garden insects, helping to keep aphids, thrips, and whiteflies at bay.’
Black-eyed Susan blooms from June through September in US hardiness zones 3 to 9, on plants that grow 2 to 3 feet in height. The most popular variety is ‘Goldsturm’, while ‘American Gold Rush’ is a new variety. ‘It has bright, golden-yellow flowers with black centers and arched petals.’
Gail Pabst
Gail is a passionate horticulturist with over 25 years’ experience in the industry. She is an avid home gardener too and loves to try out the newest varieties and techniques. Gail’s work with the National Garden Bureau and the All-America Selection has helped her to continue their mission of inspiring and teaching gardening with others.
5. Catmint
(Image credit: Katrin Ray Shumakov/Getty Images)
A valued landscaping plant, catmint (also known as Nepeta) blooms from spring through early fall, making it one of the longest-flowering perennials. Chopping down the flower spikes when they’ve faded stimulates vigorous reblooming too.
‘Cut back the plant after the first flowery flush for a new set of blooms later in the season,’ says Jenny Rose Carey. ‘There are several different species of catmint and many cultivars. My favorites are Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ and the hybrid Nepeta × faassenii ‘Cat’s Meow’.
Well-loved by pollinators, this aromatic beauty produces clouds of lavender-blue flowers and delicate silvery foliage that look wonderful as part of your planting design. Catmint is easy to grow in US hardiness zones 3 to 8, and thrives in either full sun or partial shade. It’s not fussy and will even grow in poor soil.
Blooming from summer into late fall, daisy-like asters are stars of the late-season garden. These easy-to-grow flowerbed beauties come in predominantly mauve, purple and pink shades. Also known as Michaelmas daisies, they thrive in US hardiness zones 4 to 8, and are a safe bet if you’re looking for the longest-flowering perennials to fill your garden.
When asters explode into color, bees and butterflies from far and wide descend on them to gather late-season nectar. This means they’re a great choice if you’re looking at extending the pollinator party in your yard right to the end of the year.
They add a starry detail to the front of flowerbeds too, and will grace containers in patios and porches for a low-maintenance planting option. Find more inspiration with the best perennial plants for pots if you’re a balcony gardener.
Plant some asters and they will lift your late-season garden when many other flowers are fading, plus they are fast-growing and will quickly become established to bring delight year after year. Aster plants are available from Walmart.
7. Geum
Geum ‘Scarlett Tempest’
(Image credit: Deborah Vernon/Alamy Stock Photo)
With open flowers sitting in airy clusters on long, delicate stems geum are among the prettiest of the longest-flowering perennials. There are many bold orange-colored ones to choose from that will add a vibrant note to your backyard planting design, and you can also get yellow and red varieties.
‘Geum is a recent infatuation,’ says flower expert Jac Semmler. ‘I’m at the stage where I feel like I can’t get enough and want to squeeze more into my garden. Varieties of geum vary in how long they will flower but it is really about timing. Geum plants start to flower in an ideal window, heralding the start of spring. They bloom early and can flower for a long season.’
Regularly deadhead any spent flowers and geum will continue to shine for months stretching right into fall. They will flower more profusely if planted in full sun, and thrive in US hardiness zones 5 to 10. Another plus is that most of the foliage remains green throughout winter, with new leaves emerging in spring.
Jac Semmler
Jac Semmler is foremost an experimental gardener and plant lover. She tends to Super Bloom, a creative plant practice that brings dynamic living beauty and diversity to urban spaces, landscapes and creative projects. Jac is a qualified educator, respected horticulturalist and botanical guide, and often shares her ideas at festivals as well as on radio and podcasts. She is the author of Super Bloom: A Field Guide to Flowers for Every Gardener.
FAQs
What is the longest-blooming perennial?
Our go-to choice when it comes to the longest-blooming perennials is tickseed (Coreopsis). It produces masses of yellow daisy-like flowers and is a native flower that blooms from summer through fall.
Tickseed is an easy-care plant that looks great in flowerbeds, seasonal containers, and prairie planting in US hardiness zones 4 to 9. Tough and durable, coreopsis grow in any soil, sun or partial shade, and are hardy in low temperatures.
Choose a perennial variety of tickseed (there are annual varieties too). For blooms that form in early summer and last until the end of fall, try ‘Moonbeam’ or ‘Early Sunrise’. These will consistently give you some of the best blooms over a long period.
‘Early Sunrise’ coreopsis
(Image credit: Joeri Mostmans/Getty Images)
Now you can see how important perennials are in your planting scheme you’ll be glad to know there are perennial options for difficult areas of the garden too.
August offers an ideal opportunity to take semi-ripe cuttings and propagate lots of plants to expand your current collection and fill your backyard next year with all these exciting, and free, plants.
The plants are actively growing in summer, increasing the likelihood of cuttings rooting quickly. Semi-ripe cuttings are taken from stems that have grown this year. The stems will have started to harden near the base, but the tips will still be soft.
Place the cutting somewhere warm and light – but not in full sun
Dipping the end of the cutting in rooting hormone can help it root quicker, but it is not a prerequisite. Cuttings can successfully root without being dipped in rooting hormone. It should take 6-8 weeks for summer cuttings to root and they can be kept in a greenhouse or cold frame to overwinter, ready to plant outside next spring.
1. Lavender
Lavender is universally adored. Recognizable for its glorious purple flowers, grey-green foliage and stunning fragrance, lavender is a hugely popular sight in many backyards. Whether in flower beds, herb gardens, or lining garden paths, there are lots of potential reasons for planting lavender.
If you want to add to your collection from an existing lavender variety in your yard, one option is to harvest lavender seeds and sow them. However, this can be a tricky task so taking lavender cuttings is the easiest way to go. Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken in summer and often represent the simplest way to propagate lavender.
2. Rosemary
Rosemary is a popular evergreen shrub and aromatic herb, it looks fantastic, smells amazing, and offers a wealth of culinary potential – and that is without mentioning its medicinal qualities. There are so many reasons to grow rosemary at home and taking semi-ripe cuttings is potentially the best way to propagate rosemary.
There is a diverse range of rosemary to add to any backyard ideas, including upright and trailing types and blooms that come in shades of purple, blue, and pink. And you can even successfully grow rosemary indoors.
Any type of rosemary will benefit from pruning to keep plants bushy and compact. Plants do benefit from being replaced after 5-6 years, which is where a regular routine of taking cuttings can help you have a healthy and beautiful rosemary collection year-after-year.
3. Salvia
Salvias come in many types and forms, they can be annual or perennial plants and gardeners can choose from a wide range of colors. Whatever type of salvia you grow, they are all great plants for pollinators and will attract bees and butterflies to your backyard.
Both hardy and tender salvias can root quickly and easily from semi-ripe cuttings taken in summer. Propagating salvia from cuttings allows you to get identical plants to the parent, as salvias cross-pollinate and that makes growing from seed more of a gamble as it doesn’t give guaranteed results.
4. Verbena
There are hundreds of types of verbena worldwide. Perfect for wildlife gardens, you can grow verbena as an annual, or there are many popular perennial varieties to fill the backyard with blooms for years to come. You can grow verbena from seed, purchase new plants, or, if you want more for free, take cuttings of existing plants.
Both tender and hardy verbenas can be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings in late summer or early fall. Taking cuttings in colder climates is a sensible way to ensure you do not lose all your tender verbenas if the winter temperatures unexpectedly drop more than expected.
Cuttings taken in August may root slower than softwood cuttings taken in late spring and early summer, however, they often take easily and you can enjoy the blooms the following year.
5. Tender geraniums
These plants are either known as tender geraniums or pelargoniums and come in many colors and forms. Tender geraniums make great bedding plants in the summer but are not frost-hardy so geraniums do need to be overwintered indoors.
If you want more stock of your favorites, or a gardening buddy has a geranium you are a fan of and want one of your own, taking cuttings in August is a fast and reliable way to propagate bedding geraniums.
The cuttings will root quickly and then go dormant over winter – so at this point be careful with watering as it would be a mistake with cuttings to overwater plants and ruin all that hard work. Geranium cuttings may only need watering every few weeks while overwintering.
6. Penstemon
Penstemon, also known as beardtongue, is another great plant to add to any wildlife garden as the flowers attract hummingbirds and many pollinators to the large tubular flower spikes. There are over 250 species of this native plant and they range from small alpines or rock garden plants to tall herbaceous perennials for flower beds and borders.
It is a plant you can cut back in June to get another flush of flowers and come late August, when the base of stems are hardening and the tip of non-flowering shoots remains soft, the summer-flowering perennial will be perfect for a semi-ripe cutting. The cutting wants to be 4-5 inches in length, with two-thirds of this inserted in the compost. Protect the cutting from frost and plant outside come spring.
7. Sage
As a short-lived perennial, taking cuttings of sage regularly ensures you never run out of the classic culinary herb. As suited to a flower bed, raised bed, or container garden as to any herb garden, there are hundreds of types of sage – so you are guaranteed to find one you like. When growing sage it is key to prune it regularly to keep the plant bushy and stop it from going leggy.
Sage can be propagated from cuttings throughout the summer and you can place the cutting into soil or propagate in water – just remember to avoid the common water propagation mistake of not changing the water and ensure to keep the contents of the glass fresh.
Useful Plastic Bottle Garden Projects You Can Make Easy At The Home🌱
If you are looking for something special to reuse old and empty plastic bottles around the home, you should not miss the article today. Here is the list of Useful Plastic Bottle Garden Projects You Can Make Easy At The Home. They will become useful things in your house beyond your imagination. Instead of throwing them, you will have great ideas to reuse them effectively, check them out!
The trash isn’t their new home, you can give them new missions such as garden edging, garden greenhouse, vertical garden, and more. They look perfect in all. Making your house more beautiful and impressive is their mission, and we believe that they not only become useful but also will be artworks to brighten up all your outdoor space. Save them and make some for the next weekend.
#1 Using Plastic Bottle Protects Young Plants From Frost And Pests